A Beginner’s Guide to Men’s Fashion and Style: Part Three
Our last blog entries discussed fashion and style, as well as how a suit jacket should fit. In today’s entry, we will talk about the different styles of suits, picking the right pants, and how to find a suit that is right for your style and shape.
For the best custom suits in Los Angeles, there is only one name you need to know: Art Lewin. Art Lewin Bespoke custom suits are designed just for you and your unique style. Whether you need a new suit for your office job or a suit that will look great on a red carpet, our expert tailors can help you stand out. Contact us today.
Suit Breasts and Suit Buttons
A single-breasted suit is the most common kind of suit jacket in the United States. It features a single column of buttons with a small overlap of fabric. Single-breasted suits come with either one, two, or three buttons.
A double-breasted jacket has two rows of buttons and a much larger overlap of fabric. Double breasted suits can have different numbers of buttons in two rows. Double-breasted jackets go in and out of style in the USA, but have remained popular in the UK and in Europe for several decades now, though they are generally slimmer and more modern-looking than traditional double-breasted suits.
While the majority of suits are single-breasted, a double-breasted suit can be an excellent way to stand out. In the past, double-breasted suits tended to be more formal, because they were meant to stay buttoned all the time, but that doesn’t mean that they have to be more formal. If you have your own style, especially if your style is about veering off from the norm a bit, double-breasted suits are one way that you can make an interesting statement.
The buttons on your suit are also an important consideration. Some buttons are almost purely decorative, others are meant to be used, and some are only used occasionally. It can be hard to keep all of this straight, so just remember that with a one-button suit, you always button it when you are standing. With a two-button suit, you never button the bottom button. With a three-button suit, remember SAN — an acronym that stands for Sometimes (top button), Always (middle button), Never (bottom button).
For double-breasted suits, the rules get a little murkier. Some people say that you should never button the bottom button, while others say you can choose which button to leave unfastened — either top or bottom. We think it is a good idea for you to choose which one looks best for your frame.
The pants that go with your suit are often overlooked, but few things will make a suit look stranger than pairing it with the wrong pants or pants that aren’t worn properly. When you are wearing a suit, your pants should rest at your natural waist, no matter how big or small you are, and they should fit so well that you don’t need a belt to hold them up. Read more about belts and other accessories in our next blog entry.
You want your pants to be comfortable, meaning not too tight, but you don’t want them to be baggy or too loose. A good rule of thumb is to have about an inch of extra material at your thighs when standing up. Anything less than that and your pants will be too tight, much more than that and they can get too baggy and bunchy.
The phrase “trouser break” might be new to you, but it is an important consideration when you are picking out a suit or when you are having a custom suit made for you. The break is how and where the fabric of your pant cuff touches your shoe. Most people don’t notice a trouser break, but if your trousers are too short or too long, the effect is hard to ignore. For most people, a single break is all you need, though there are other styles. A lot of modern suits have a high break that barely touches your shoe.
How to Find the Right Suit
As if all of that information wasn’t enough, now you have to put it all together to find a suit. Where do you start? Well, if you’re in Los Angeles and you know that you want a suit that is going to be one-of-a-kind, you should call Art Lewin Bespoke. Our custom suits are perfect for everyone. The best part of a bespoke suit is that we will match your style or help you better define what your style is.
Contact us today to set up an appointment or to learn more about our custom suits. Stay tuned for our next blog entry where we will discuss all of the final details that will take your suit (and your style) to the next level!