The Style And Fit Of Men’s Bespoke Trousers
From pleats and pockets to collars and cuffs, men’s bespoke suits can be customized in all ways possible to fit your unique size and shape. When it comes to comfort, the whole silhouette, and style credentials, the trousers are the ones doing all the legwork.
Keep reading for the low down, skinny, and straight-up story on the style and fit of bespoke trousers, brought to you by Art Lewin Bespoke Suits.
Bespoke Trouser Style
Trousers are the more traditional alternative to jeans when it comes to semi-casual and formal wear. While there are several styles of trousers, there are two main styles that focus upon the front: the flat front trouser and the pleated trouser.
The more traditional and stylistic pleated trousers have pleats of material that fold down the front from below the waistband on either side of the fly. Pleated trousers are perfect for the business setting where more traditional styles are acceptable, though they can be worn for nearly every occasion.
The flat front has been adopted by fashion-setters as the new and hip style of trousers, often worn low on the hips. Unlike the pleated trousers, flat front trousers lack any sort of pleats down the front. The clean lines of flat front trousers lend themselves to be worn with fitted jackets and sleek accessories and are popular with younger trouser wearers.
Flat front pants are considered to be a continental European tradition, while cuffs are of Anglo-American origin. Although these may sound like obscure details, mixing these two styles is a fairly obvious faux-pas to well-dressed gentlemen and should be avoided.
Bespoke Trouser Fit
Much like how a bespoke suit jacket should fit well through the shoulders, a pair of trousers starts with the rise. The rise is the measurement from the crotch seam to the top of the pants — the front rise being the measurement at the front, and the back rise being the measurement around the back. While these can be altered, you want to find the right rise in the beginning to make for a smooth process. The proper width of trouser cuffs should be 1 ½ inch (3.81 cm) for a man under 5 ft 10 (177.80 cm), and 1¾ inch (4.44 cm) if taller.
The rise also determines where your waistband sits. If you’re a man that stands with his hips forward and knees locked, you’ll see excess fabric crumple below the seat and ripple down the back of the thighs, regardless of the style you choose. If you’re more athletic and stand with your hips pushed back, the fullness will move to the front. Depending on posture and trousers style, the shortening of the rise can be the perfect solution. Here are some tips to look for in your next bespoke trouser fitting:
- Hip pockets should stay flat against your body — if they bow outwards, something is likely too tight
- Pleats should stay closed, and the fly-band should lay straight
- The leg line should be clean and free from any puckering, pulling, or folding
Remember, pants will move depending on how you stand, but the goal should be to get as clean a fit as possible. Always request a three-way mirror at any fitting.
When it comes to trousers, body type plays an important role in fit and style. While skinny, long legged men can effectively wear both the flat front and pleated trousers, shorter men must be more careful when picking a style. Depending upon body shape, larger men may want to avoid pleated trousers as the extra bulk of the pleats could add extra pounds of visual weight.
Bespoke Trousers In Southern California
If you’re in the market for custom bespoke trousers, our bespoke tailoring services will help you find the perfect pair. With years of experience behind their work, the expert tailors at Art Lewin Bespoke Suits will make sure you’re completely satisfied with the final product, whether it’s a pair of trousers or a custom suit. Schedule your fitting today!